Kooks in the Kitchen and Great Social Skills: A Mother’s Trade-off in Mexico

First Published on Mexico Connect April 1, 2008

Kooks in the Kitchen and Great Social Skills: A Mother’s Trade-off in Mexico

By Julia Taylor © Julia Taylor 2008

Sometimes circumstances in Mexico make it harder to care for a child. But overall, Mexico has given us many blessings as parents.

“Kook! Kook!” our son, standing on a chair and pointing emphatically at one particular spot on our kitchen shelves, kept repeating, “kook.”

“¿Qué quieres? No te entiendo. ¿Qué es ‘cuc’?” My husband was getting more and more confused, as he moved non-edible items around on the shelf.

“Do you want this?”

“No. Kook.”

In a process of elimination, my husband had moved almost everything away from the area indicated by our son — even most of the glass spice containers. Containing no fruit or snack items, the area in question was normally ignored by our toddler. That particular part of the shelf was almost bare, and still he hadn’t determined what our son wanted. In a last-ditch effort to help our son, he scooted the chair that our son was standing on closer so that our little one could touch whatever it was that he wanted. When he didn’t select anything, but continued to point, my husband finally said, “Well, son, I give up. I’m sorry, but I just do not know what you want,” and went back to chopping veggies.

Our son instantly turned to me, “¡Mamá, cuc!”

I decided to give the shelf one last look, and there it was. A cockroach, sitting on top of the last spice jar, waggling it’s antennae in broad sweeps. It was one of the outdoor kind, sometimes called a Plametto Bug, with the big wings, which obviously had decided to come inside and try the domesticated life.

“Oh. A cockroach. Quick, get a paper towel.”

We each took our customary pest elimination stations. My husband holding the preferred killing device - in this case a folded paper towel, myself on back-up, holding a shoe over a possible escape route, and our son, observing from a safe distance. The cockroach met his end on the first try and we began joking. “We have ‘kooks’ in the kitchen.”

Roaches aren’t the only wildlife our son can identify. He knows three others, collectively referred to as “tee-tees,” making use of his term for ‘injury’ or ‘hurt.’ He stays well away from previously killed scorpions, left out for him to find and practice not touching. He loves to tell everyone about the “tee-tee” (a lovely, but very nasty fuzzy green caterpillar) that his father chopped out of the rose bush with pruning shears while he and I stood well back and said, “Oooo. Tee-tee. Don’t touch. Be careful Papá.” He also identifies snakes as “tee-tees” thanks to the little viper we found on the washing machine.

I showed him the black widow I recently killed on the screen door, but it was so mashed up, I don’t think he properly got a positive I.D. on that one. I’m just grateful they seem to hang out in the front door frame where I can periodically check for them.

A child’s social life

neighbors in Cuernavaca copyright 2008 Julia TaylorOur son, when he’s not scouting for vermin, keeps up on our neighbors’ activities. In fact, their joyful attentions have him convinced that he is famous. One of our neighbors is retired and often comes out to water his plants on the other side of our shared chain-link fence. Our son likes to stand nearby and observe him. Our neighbor always asks him to pass his little hand through the fence so that they can shake hands. “Saluda,” [Say hello] he tells him and corrects him if he tries to extend the left hand rather than the right. It was during one of these moments that he taught our son one of his first words, “agua.” Lately, they are practicing their whistles. When our neighbor comes out to water, he lets out a short, high-pitched whistle and my son replies with his own version, “wsht.”

Another neighbor is semi-retired and building a new house on his property. He is often outside shoveling sand and mixing cement. Our son stands at the gate and shouts for his attention. This neighbor says our son is his cuate [buddy] and always takes a moment to greet the little guy. He pays enough attention to our son that he understands our son’s pre-speaking conversation and always responds appropriately to what our son tells him.

A third neighbor has a small work-area under a tree in front of his house where he welds made-to-order window frames and metal railings. Every time we go by, he stops work and waves goodbye to our son, calling him by name and asking him where he is going, which is a common way of greeting a passing neighbor or friend in Mexico.

When we travel outside our neighborhood our son beams huge, toothy grins at complete strangers, expecting them to respond to him as warmly as his neighbors do. He doesn’t get discouraged when they don’t reply, but just uses more of the social skills that he has learned from our neighbors.

When I first considered becoming a parent in Mexico, one of my concerns was that my child might be stung by a scorpion. It is true that we sometimes find scorpions inside our house but, by cleaning behind and underneath furniture, we keep them away and have always seen them just as they are first entering our house from outside. As our son has grown older and successfully learned to be afraid of scorpions, I’ve become less fearful of a tragic sting.

Sometimes circumstances in Mexico make it harder to care for a child, but overall, Mexico has given us many blessings as parents. One of the most important blessings is that I will be able to stay at home with our son until he is ready to go to pre-school or day care. I’ve had no social pressure to return to work, but have had lots of support from other moms who understand that being a stay-at-home mom can sometimes be downright boring. In Mexico the weather’s always good and we can play outside with water, chalk, or toy cars. Everybody else has children, too, so if our child is over-tired or bored and making a scene in public there is almost always someone who will talk to him and help him have fun.

Like our neighbors, many people in Mexico understand and enjoy children. Children are spoken to directly from the moment that they are born. When our son was an infant and I first began carrying him with me to do errands, I was surprised at the way people greeted both of us. Not only would they say hello to me, but they would get into his line of sight and greet him too, telling him how precious and cute he was. After becoming accustomed to this, when I traveled to the U.S., I was again surprised at the way people treated him. This time I was surprised at their coldness. People would hold entire conversations right over his head and never so much as say hello to him. Not everyone was like this, of course, but enough people were that I noticed the difference between the two cultures. I got the impression that people’s general lack of exposure to children caused them to be embarrassed to talk to him. As a child he was a minority of sorts and people preferred to avoid him. Personally, if having my son be included in social interaction and thus learn positive social skills means I have to see the occasional ‘kook’ in my kitchen or scorpion on my patio, I’ll take the deal.

Family Fun is the Heart of Parque Aquatico Oaxtepec near Cuernavaca, Morelos

First Published on Mexico Connect March 1, 2008

Family Fun is the Heart of Parque Aquatico Oaxtepec near Cuernavaca, Morelos

Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008By Julia Taylor © Julia Taylor 2008

As soon as you walk in the gates of PAO (Parque Aquatico Oaxtepec) you know that everyone in your family is going to have fun. Right in front of the entrance is a sparkling pool with child-accessible water slides under towering palm trees surrounded by an impeccable lawn. Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008All the paths are swept and, if you were to take your shoes off right there, you could comfortably go barefoot all day. But don’t take your shoes off quite yet. The park extends 24 hectares (59 acres or almost 78 American football fields with the end zones included) and is divided into three different sections. You have a lot of exploring to do!

Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008The Bugambilia Zone

The first section, called the Bugambilia Zone has two shallow pools for young children, equipped with water slides that are just right for children of elementary school age. One of the pools even has water sprayers that the little ones love to play with for hours, redirecting the water with their hands and tummies. Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008There is also a deeper lap-pool, a chest-deep whirlpool that carries swimmers in lazy circles, a curlicue water slide falling into its own pool, an Olympic high dive, and two ankle-deep wading pools with fountains that move and fall in cascades that are fun to touch and explore. There are a number of covered picnic areas with tables, grills, and tile covered preparation areas. These are clearly numbered and are available for the additional cost of 50 pesos, payable at the front gate.

The Orange Zone

Young children, older children, teens and Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008adults will all like the orange zone. The pools and water slides are clustered so that swimmers of all ages and skill levels can find enjoyment within sight of any shady spot that their family might stake out in the surrounding impeccable grassy areas. One of the pools is shin deep with an arch from which falls a curtain of water that children can turn on and off Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008by rotating a wheel, as well as a set of large cones that fill up and spill randomly. There are also two different pools with floating pads that are connected to the bottom of the pool. Overhead bars are mounted above these pads for people to hold as they cross the water without falling in. Of course falling in is accompanied by splashing, and peals of laughter. Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008The author’s favorite water slide was in this area, too, with a fast corkscrew that dumps you out energized and ready to run back up the stairs for another trip.

The Blue Zone

The Blue Zone is the most exciting. Arriving, you see water falls pouring down on bathers floating on Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008yellow inner tubes. There are a variety of places where you can access this slow-flowing river by simply walking down some stairs built into its bank and climbing onto one of the many inner tubes as they go by. The river is shaded and surrounded by trees and plants creating a very relaxed feel. For excitement, on the straight stretches the Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008inner tubes are perfect for kicking, splashing races. Crossing a bridge over the river you see an extensive wave pool creating huge waves that will lift you right off your feet with shaded lounge chairs lining the beach. For younger people there is a large colorful play structure in a wading pool with slides, wheels and bridges. Further along the trail there is a long, tummy slide that you go down Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008on a sled-like mat. The wind whistled in the author’s earrings as she zipped down that one. Next to this are two steep slides that are almost free-falls, but the author recommends avoiding these because people exiting had huge, red patches on their backs. The blue zone also has two very large water slides with multiple loop-the-loops.Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008

Overall Park Experience

The entire park has plenty of trees providing shaded areas on the grass surrounding the pools. In Oaxtepec, you don’t have to worry if the weather will be warm enough. The average temperature is 27 degrees Celsius (over 80 Fahrenheit). The author and her family visited on a Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008Sunday in January and there were no lines to any of the water slides. Sundays are typically busy days at parks in Mexico, though the slightly cooler days in January might have reduced the number of visitors that day.

There are restrooms, snack bars, and souvenir shops selling water toys in each of the three areas of the park. Some areas have piped in non-intrusive music that adds to the feeling of relaxation. Visitors are allowed to bring in food, water, portable barbecues, and other things to make a picnic lunch (as long as they bring it all Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008in with them the first time they enter). To protect the feet of bathers, no glass containers are allowed and there is no garbage in sight.

Small lockers are available to store your valuables all day for 15 pesos. The dressing areas provide limited privacy since they are large rooms with benches along the walls. The shower area is visually separated from the changing area, but doesn’t provide privacy among those showering simultaneously. The restroom area adjoins the changing area, but there are few stalls. At 5:00 p.m., the pools close and the bathrooms are suddenly very busy. Since the dressing areas don’t provide privacy, many people were changing in the toilette stalls, causing quite a wait.

Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008Safety at PAO

The stairs leading up to all of the slides have handrails and are made of comfortable, non-slip plastic. Rubberized non-slip matting covers most of the pools. The cement walkways are level and not too rough for tender bare feet. There are ample personnel and life guards stationed throughout the park, particularly at the entrances and exits of water slides. The exit pools are dedicated to the slides. Park personnel at the top of the slides maintain strict control; no one can enter the top of a slide until the person before them is in the water and moving toward the ladder to exit the pool. The author didn’t notice any wiring or outlets where little children might touch it, nor any major tripping hazards on the ground.

Getting to Parque Acquatico Oaxtepec and Entrance Fees

Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008PAO and another water park, called the Centro Vacacional Oaxtepec*, share an entrance in the town of Oaxtepec marked with huge stone arches. If you drive to Oaxtepec, head in the direction of Cuautla and, before you get there, follow signs to the town of Oaxtepec. Parking costs 24 pesos.

The Pullman bus line provides service to the town of Oaxtepec from the Cuernavaca Centro and Mexico City Taxqueña bus stations. The station in Oaxtepec is very close to the entrance to the park. Additionally, there are reduced price all-inclusive tours that provide transportation from various points in Mexico City. For more information visit the website. Some promotions aren’t listed on the site, so it may be necessary to call the staff at the park to find out more. Park fees (as of February 2008) are 135 pesos for adults and 65 pesos for children under 1.20 meters tall. There is also an option for an all-you-can-eat buffet that can be purchased at the restaurant for an additional 100 pesos for adults and 70 pesos for children or at the park entrance as a package that includes both entrance fee and buffet for 205 pesos for adults and 135 for children.

Between the hours of 11:00 and 4:30, the buffet is the only meal served in the restaurants. While the buffet seemed of good quality it may not be right for everyone. The only other foods available inside the park were hamburgers (35 pesos), French fries (22 pesos), and Foster Farms corndogs (20 pesos). A package deal of burger, fries, and pop was 65 pesos. The reader should choose their preferred meal option ahead of time, since no one is allowed to leave and re-enter with food.

Following is PAO’s weekly schedule (entrance fees are the same throughout the week):

  • Saturday, Sunday, and Mexican holidays - all three zones open
  • Monday - closed
  • Tuesday and Wednesday - Bugambilia Zone open
  • Thursday and Friday - Orange Zone open

Sneak a peak at the park on flashearth

Oaxtepec - Home of One of the World’s First Botanical Gardens

Oaxtepec Water Park Morelos Mexico photo copyright Julia Taylor 2008According to the National Commission of Protected Areas, the Mexica emperors preserved natural areas throughout their lands. The concept of the preserves was similar to that of today’s botanical gardens and in fact was begun centuries earlier than in Europe. The Mexicas limited hunting and gathering of resources within their gardens and even conquered a place in Oaxaca to get a sacred tree that grew in that area. One of these preserves was located in what is now Oaxtepec, Morelos in the area of the current Centro Vacacional Oaxtepec. When the Spanish arrived, the garden in Oaxtepec was under the control of Moctezuma Xocoyótzin and had been functioning as a protected area for more than 75 years. In 1522, Hernán Cortés wrote that the garden was “the best, most beautiful and fresh ever seen.” He continued to say, that “there are pools, and very fresh gardens, and infinite numbers of diverse fruit trees, and many herbs and aromatic flowers.” A phone call to someone at the Centro Vacacional Oaxtepec seems to confirm that the springs and possibly the oldest trees are the only things left of Moctezuma’s original preserve.

*The neighboring, Centro Vacacional Oaxtepec has rustic pools, a convention center, a camping area, hotel, cabins and houses that can be rented for larger groups. Guests at these facilities are entitled to a 50% discount on their entrance fees to PAO. To learn more about this area see the web site (in Spanish) or send an e-mail.

Source (quotes translated by the author of the article)

De la Maza Elvira, Roberto and Javier de la Maza Elvira. Comisionado Nacional de Áreas Naturales Protegidas (National Commission of Protected Natural Areas). “Historia de las Áreas Naturales Protegidas de México” (History of the Natural Protected Areas of Mexico). Accessed February 9, 2008.

There’s Heart Within These Walls: Cuernavaca’s Muros Museum

Mural Acredited to Diego Rivera at Muros Museum in Cuernavaca

First Published on Mexico Connect February 1, 2008

Cuernavaca’s Muros Museum: There’s Heart Within These Walls

By Julia Taylor © Julia Taylor 2008

Muros, which means “walls” in Spanish, opened to the public in May of 2004. It is the only museum in Cuernavaca, Morelos originally designed to be a museum. The space is flexible with movable lighting, high ceilings andMuros Museum Cuernavaca Morelos open areas in which display environments can be constructed. The museum gets its name from its 3,600 square meters of wall space. Even more important than the walls are the professional, organized, staff members who are stationed throughout the museum and who support the visitor’s experience. Muros‘ staff provides the real heart of the museum.

Muros Museum Cuernavaca MorelosThe entrance to the museum is wide open and welcoming. As you approach the museum, you first encounter a tourist information table staffed by both museum and Morelos tourist department personnel where you can get information about Muros and other attractions throughout the state. As the author purchased tickets for a second visit to the museum, she was carrying her toddler on her back and the man in charge offered a stroller for the visit. Often there is someone standing at the large, glass doorway to hold the door open and tell you, “Bienvenidos.”

Muros Museum Cuernavaca MorelosIn the courtyard area in front of the museum you is an original tile mosaic credited to Diego Rivera. It was originally built near the swimming pool of a private home and depicts native Mexicans bathing in a stream. A mother is washing her son, a father trying to coax another son to bathe as well, and other people are splashing water on themselves. Muros Museum Cuernavaca MorelosWalk around the other side of the mural and you see… the other side of the scene.

Inside the museum there is a sense of space and ease of movement. Muros feels modern and everywhere you go you hear the sound of fans quietly turning and air moving in the exposed ventilation ducts. An upstairs area displays the formerly private Muros Museum Cuernavaca Moreloscollection of Jacques and Natasha Gelman, which the museum is proud to maintain in Cuernavaca. The collection provides a nice cross section of important Mexican art without being overwhelming. There are pieces by Diego Rivera, Carlos Orozco Romero, David A. Siqueiros, Frida Kahlo, and Rufino Tamayo, among others, and a timeline that provides an overview of the artists in the framework of world events during their lives. Downstairs, there are rotating displays of additional artwork. There is also a large room with restored murals that provides an area for events and temporary expositions. Throughout the museum, art of a wide variety of media and textures - such as metal, tile, hair, cardboard, glass, canvas, and video - are on display. The titles of works are clearly listed in both Spanish and English. There are also comfortable computer consoles, with standing perches that offer additional information on the artist’s lives and works as well as a carpeted reading area with cushioned seats and lots of books about art.

Muros Museum Cuernavaca MorelosAt the time that the author and her family visited, there was an interactive display about the life and work of Diego Rivera, which was specially designed for children. It provided a fun time for all members of the family. The open space had been divided into smaller “rooms,” each with a different theme from Rivera’s life. Most rooms had something for a 1 and a ½ year old. There were tiles you could move around to make a tile mural and hats to wear. But the most fun of all were masks and costumes of characters from one of his murals. We spent a lot of time putting on masks and peering at ourselves in the mirror provided just for that purpose.

Muros Museum Cuernavaca MorelosMuros is more of a success story than you might guess because it was first conceived as a kind of olive branch to certain members of the Cuernavaca community. It is situated to one side of a large grocery store/parking lot complex developed on the site of what had previously been the Casino de la Selva. Casino de la Selva (Jungle Casino) was a distinctive entertainment location at the heart of today’s Cuernavaca since the 1930s. It was surrounded by tall walls and had fallen into severe disrepair over the years since its closing. For many years, only trespassers saw the grounds inside the walls, but the thick tree canopy on the property was obvious to all who passed by. When construction began on the property, many Cuernavacan’s were outraged that two huge grocery stores, a restaurant, and extensive parking lot would replace the Casino and its trees. Long, intense protests were staged to try to stop the development and suggestions were made that the property would better serve the community as a park. In the end, the grocery store chain was allowed to develop the site, but the idea of the community center was generated as a way to try to respond to the community outcry.

Muros Museum Cuernavaca MorelosSo far Muros has delivered to Cuernavacan community of all ages of the. Laura Perez, who is in charge of the program Muros para los Niños de Morelos (Muros for the Children of Morelos) plans many guided visits and workshops for school children. Her goal, she says, is to connect the children’s activities and particular pieces of art with something that they are currently studying in school, usually in the subjects of history, art, or civismo (loosely translates as civics, but with a more sociological focus). When I asked her which was her favorite children’s activity so far, it was hard for her to pick because they have been so varied and unique.

Muros Museum Cuernavaca MorelosOne activity she mentioned was for children learning geometry. They were shown pieces of art that exemplified geometric features and the students were thrilled to find the triangles, circles, etc. that they were learning about in school. Another workshop involved sitting in front of a mirror and doing a self portrait just like Frida Kahlo did. Laura said that she enjoyed seeing how some kids noticed and depicted tiny details, such as wrinkles on their faces while others exaggerated certain features like a large nose.

Every Saturday and Sunday, Muros offers workshops for children that relate to the temporary exhibits. In this way, if the exhibits aren’t designed for children - meaning you aren’t supposed to touch things, specifies Laura - children can still be involved. These workshops are offered from 11 to 2, and the cost is just that of the materials used.

Museum Cost, Hours, and Facilities

Muros Museum Cuernavaca MorelosThe museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and admission costs 30 pesos; children under six years old and older people with a special card are free. There are teacher and student discounts that reduce the price to 15 pesos with an I.D. Admission is free for everyone on Sundays and Tuesdays. There is a convenient, centrally located elevator just in front of the spotlessly clean restrooms so that wheelchairs can easily access the second floor. Take a look at the museum’s web site.

Muros Museum Cuernavaca MorelosDon’t worry about parking, because there is plenty available. To get to the museum, enter the parking lot from any of the three Mega Commercial/Costco entrances. The museum is to the left of the California restaurant as you face it from the parking lot. There are a plethora of buses that will get you to the three entrances including any routes that say Plaza (for Plaza Cuernavaca, the mall almost directly across the street from one of the parking lot entrances) on them, as well as the 2 and 7 that say Tunel (enter near the grocery store named “Mega“), and the 18 (enter near the hospital).

Muros Museum Cuernavaca MorelosI learned many new things on my visits to Muros. I’ll leave you with one of them. Guess how many names Diego Rivera had? Ten. That’s right. His full name was Diego Maria Concepción Juan Nepomuceno Estanislao de la Rivera y Banientos Acosta y Rodríguez.

Much thanks to the following Sources:

* Lagarde Lozano, René. “Diseño y Funcionalidad en el Edificio de Muros” [Design and Function in Muros]. 26 September 2007. Diario de Morelos. p6. (for information about the building and the development of the site)

* Dumay, María Gabriela. “Las 10 Mejores Obras de Muros” [The Top 10 Works at Muros]. 26 September 2007. Diario de Morelos. p12-13. (for information about the collection of Jacques and Natasha Gelman)

It’s Hot in Zacatepec, Morelos

First Published
on Mexico Connect January 1, 2008

It’s Hot in Zacatepec, Morelos

By Julia Taylor © Julia Taylor 2008

Zacatepec Morelos has three claims to fame – the sugar mill, the Instituto Technológico de Zacatepec and its soccer stadium.

copyright Julia Taylor 2008There are two reasons you might want to go to Zacatepec, Morelos. The first is to warm up your frozen bones after a few months of northern winter – it’s hot in Zacatepec, really hot. The second is to be in a place off of the beaten tourist track, seeing the “real Mexico” as many call it.

copyright Julia Taylor 2008It was October and still sweaty in Zacatepec. I was finally visiting this town because I had been invited to give an English as a Foreign Language presentation. After the presentation, a colleague generously took a few hours to give me a whirlwind tour of the zócalo of Zacatepec and to visit a church in nearby Tetelpa. My colleague is from Cuernavaca, and has recently become director of a branch language school in Zacatepec – in “the hot lands” as the southern part of Morelos is commonly called by morelenses. Apparently, he’s had some time to think about the hot lands.copyright Julia Taylor 2008 “It’s as hot as Acapulco, but the problem is that it’s without the beach,” he told me, sweat gathering on his forehead as we left a small store where we’d purchased ice-cold pop and bottled water. Later, as he guided a borrowed car toward Tetelpa, he explained the main reason for the differences in the temperatures, “Cuernavaca has an altitude of 1500 meters and Zacatapec only 910.”

Zacatepec has three claims to fame. One is the sugar mill itself. President Lazaro Cardenas inaugurated the mill on February 5, 1938 inside the burned-out walls of an older hacienda built in the late 1800s and destroyed in 1910 during the revolution. The president wanted to improve the economic conditions of the people of the region. Interestingly, the mill is right in the middle of town because on December 25th of 1938, the state governor created the municipality of Zacatepec as the head of Tetelpa, Galeana (the site of another ex-hacienda), and the former Zacatepec hacienda.

The second of Zacatepec’s claims to fame is the well-known engineering university, Instituto Technologico de Zacatepec (ITZ - Technological Institute of Zacatepec) where students can major in civil, chemical, biochemical, and electromechanical engineering among other careers. The university is part of the federal education system (SEP) and is almost free for students. The university is the outgrowth of a community effort throughout the 1950s to create an institution of higher learning. Until November 28, 1961, students who wished to continue on to secondary school after completing primary school had to travel to nearby Jojutla for their daily classes. The first classes offered were for secondary school students with higher and levels of education being offered as students needed them.

There are close ties between the sugar factory and the school, as some of the first community members who organized and petitioned the federal education system for the creation of the school were members of the factory advisory board. The factory donated the 7.5 hectares of land that are now the university campus and the workers of the factory each donated three days worth of their salaries toward the initial construction costs in 1955. (There had been an agreement between the factory advisory board and the federal school system that the factory was to provide 50% of the construction and ongoing maintenance costs of the school.)

copyright Julia Taylor 2008The third claim to fame is a large soccer stadium adjoining the zócalo. During the ’50s the team won two titles in the First Division League Championship. The Cañeros (sugar cane growers) of Zacatepec are now Third Division, but it’s still fun to watch a game in the stadium. If you are in town, check for signs indicating upcoming games.

copyright Julia Taylor 2008The polluted Apatlaco River supports Zacatepec, allowing for the irrigation of rice, corn, peanut, watermelon, melon, and especially sugarcane fields. Surrounded by sugarcane fields, Zacatepec is accessed by a wide highway leading from the toll Acapulco-Mexico City highway or from nearby Jojutla. All along the highway there are motorcycle-taxis pulling little passenger wagons behind them.

copyright Julia Taylor 2008Zacatepec isn’t usually a tourist destination, but my colleague knew of a recently opened museum in Tetelpa that he’d wanted to see since he had missed the opening ceremony due to work obligations. We made the 15 minute drive to the San Esteban church in Tetelpa and parked in the shade on the street. We were greeted by a copyright Julia Taylor 2008uniformed police officer and young local man, casually guarding the church and museum. The church and museum were closed, they informed us, but the young man would take us to the home of the curator, who lived nearby, to see if he would come and open the museum just for us. A few blocks away, we stood in front of a long driveway and the young man shouted for Edgar. Eventually a young woman came out and told us that Edgar wasn’t home, but that she could send someone for him if we really wanted to see the museum. We told her that we’d better come back some other time and thanked her very much.

copyright Julia Taylor 2008Our young companion, Jorge Maldonado Hernandez, who gave me permission to include his name in my article, gave us a personal tour of the church grounds, ending with a spectacular visit to the rooftop where we saw the bells and enjoyed the view of the land surrounding Tetelpa, Zacatepec, and Jojutla.

copyright Julia Taylor 2008The view from the churchyard is inviting, since the church is built on top of a small hill. Pedestrian streets lead up to the gated entrances from the four cardinal directions. In addition to our voices, the only sounds in the churchyard were birds chirping in the trees and music from a house adjoining the yard on the other side of the whitewashed wall.

copyright Julia Taylor 2008Jorge told us that the church had recently been the victim of vandals (probably the reason for the uniformed guard we had encountered). The wooden door had been broken and this allowed us to peek inside. Jorge knew a bit about the history of the church and told us where priests had been buried in the yard; he also pointed out the stained glass windows on all sides of the lovely little church.

We climbed a stairway built onto one wing of the church and stepped out onto the rooftop, painted brick red, and sloped with the curving lines of the church roof. Jorge showed us the four church bells copyright Julia Taylor 2008and encouraged us to climb into the small bell tower. Once he had us all safely stationed on the roughly warn stones of the tower, he extracted a small nail clipper from his pocket. He wouldn’t ring the bells for real, he told us, but he would show us the different sounds of the bells. He tapped lightly on each bell so that we could hear the difference in the sounds. copyright Julia Taylor 2008His favorite is the bell called la campana reina (the queen bell), made of bronze, gold, and silver. Another bell, the largest of the four, had a gaping crack in one side. This one had fallen from its mount about six years before, and luckily nothing had happened to the man who was ringing the bell at the time.

From the church roof we could see the lush, irrigated fields surrounding Zacatepec and Tetelpa. There was a lot of sugarcane, of course, but there was also, rice, corn, and sorghum (Jorge confirmed or corrected our guesses on each field). We saw one field of familiar copyright Julia Taylor 2008blue-green plants. Someone has planted a field of agave and plans to produce tequila, though the agave hasn’t quite matured yet. To the southeast we could see the aqua colors of the pools at the Iguazu aquatic park and, much further in the distance, the church in the center of Jojutla and, to the north, the swimming pool of a club for rich people who come from Mexico City and other places to spend time relaxing.

Beneath our feet in one wing of the church, the community museum waited silently for Thursday to roll around when its doors would be open from 10:00 to 2:00 copyright Julia Taylor 2008and 4:00 to 6:00, daily through Sunday. The cost of the museum is $10 pesos (about 1 dollar) and is a guided visit. For information about the museum write to museosanestebantetelpa at hotmail.com (Replace the word “at” with the @ symbol and remove the spaces when you enter the address). A brochure about the museum that Jorge removed from the locked ticket office outside the entrance to the museum says that the museum consists of five rooms - a traditional kitchen used by the formerly resident vicars, archeological pieces and models of the original inhabitants of Tetelpa, copyright Julia Taylor 2008information about four centuries of Catholic presence in Tetelpa, historic archives including regional records of births, marriages, censuses, deaths, and even mass deaths caused by cholera, and finally a multiuse room for art and cultural exhibits that are changed monthly.

If you want to visit Zacatepec and Tetelpa, stay in a hotel in nearby Jojutla, about 10 minutes away. Consider including a visit to the aquatic park Iguazu, right on the main road from Zacatepec to Tetelpa, to refresh yourself from the intense “hot lands” heat.

copyright Julia Taylor 2008Plan your visit during one of Tetelpa’s local festivals so that you can enjoy the awe-inspiring hospitality of Morelos’s traditional townspeople. Jorge carefully reviewed with us the important festival dates which are as follows.

September 16th is the date of los tamalazos. This is when the women make small tamales de ceniza (tamales with a tiny bit of ash in them for flavoring. Don’t worry. They aren’t gritty.) Anyone in Tetelpa on the 16th will be fed this delicious homemade treat.

December 8th is la natividad de la Virgin copyright Julia Taylor 2008Conchita and is celebrated with castillos (fireworks on a temporary tower, a wonderful Mexican invention that you’ve got to see to believe). Comidas (traditional foods, such as mole are prepared in copious amounts and all who come to a family’s house are fed), and danzas (dances - each town will have its own traditional dances) are a part of the festivities.

December 26th is the day San Esteban is celebrated with another castillo. There is regular bus service to Zacatepec provided by Pullman de Morelos (from the downtown Cuernavaca station, the trip takes 40 minutes and buses depart every 30 minutes for 24 pesos and from the Tasqueña Station in Mexico City for 85 pesos). Once in the “hot lands” the peseros or local buses connect Jojutla, Zacatepec and Tetelpa into a convenient network. Taxis and motorcycle taxis are also available to take you from place to place.

Sources:

Zacatepec municipal web page

Instituto Tecnólogico de Zacatapec web page

Wikipedia: http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zacatepec
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zacatepec_de_Hidalgo
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cuernavaca

For further reading:
GPS bicycling tour Mexico City to Jojutla (near Zacatepec) with an interactive topographic map

copyright Julia Taylor 2008
copyright Julia Taylor 2008
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copyright Julia Taylor 2008
copyright Julia Taylor 2008
copyright Julia Taylor 2008
copyright Julia Taylor 2008
copyright Julia Taylor 2008
copyright Julia Taylor 2008
copyright Julia Taylor 2008

Retire to Mexico: A New Home Town and a New Life

By Julia Taylor

Living in Cuernavaca, Mexico can transform your life. copywrite Julia Taylor 2008If you chose to retire to this beautiful part of the world you may become less self centered and get better at living your life in a more holistic way. The discomfort of the initial culture shock soon burns out and left in its wake is a new set of social skills, a new sense of home.

Cuernavaca is a nice place to go through the culture shock that is part and parcel of beginning an expatriate experience. People in Cuernavaca are used to foreigners and many have traveled throughout the world, yet they value and maintain their distinctively Mexican customs.

Services such as Internet, cable TV with programming from the U.S. and Hollywood movies in English are readily available, just in case one needs something familiar. There are small, but active groups of expatriates in the area who are happy to get together and chat.

Cuernavaca residents experience few climactic difficulties. There are neither deadly storms nor tornados or floods. The temperature rarely dips below freezing and only occasionally climbs above 95 degrees Fahrenheit (34 Celsius). A shady home with windows to throw open to capture a cross breeze are enough to beat the Mexican heat.

Plenty of cultural events and activities make living in Cuernavaca fun. For those who need to experience what the big city has to offer, Mexico City is only an hour’s drive away. The Mexico City International airport, many archaeological sites, lots of water parks, health spas, and picturesque little towns are within one to two hour’s drive, allowing Cuernavaca’s residents to enjoy travel and exploration. copywrite Julia Taylor 2008Acapulco, the playground of the stars, is only 4 hours away for quick beach getaways. There are also plenty of opportunities to take classes in dance, exercise, handicrafts, languages, etc. You can also participate in community-oriented activities to broaden your horizon. Cuernavaca has actually been getting more fun over the years and has thrown its arms wide to embrace the new residents.

Local honey and yoghurt

The zocalo (town square) has become livelier with estudiantinas dressed in colonial-like Spanish garb singing, dancing, and playing the tambourine. More free concerts are being held there as well as markets where the locals sell their produce such as honey, yoghurt, traditional candies, and home décor items. Lately a group of young people has been playing African drums. On “regular” nights, vendors sell corn on the cob, snow cones, traditional candies, fruit smoothies, hand woven baskets, and much more.

copywrite Julia Taylor 2008If you speak Spanish and want to get better at understanding Mexico’s famous “double meaning” humor, ribald clowns crack crass jokes in their smoothly performed routines. Even if you don’t speak Spanish you can enjoy watching the kids sitting in the front row, ready to run out to volunteer to be part of the show. The clowns give them things to do such as wearing rubber masks depicting political figures, or standing perfectly still while they run balloon “snakes” along their cheeks from behind. Like kids everywhere, their enthusiasm and innocence makes them a delight to watch.

Across the street from the zocalo the theater is being remodeled. The light pouring out of the once dark windows makes the area feel as if it is the heart of a network of cultural activities. The local museum in the Palacio de Cortez (Cortez’s Palace) teaches about the history of Cuernavaca, shows paintings and other art, as well as housing an illustrative Diego Rivera mural that teaches much about the history of Cuernavaca with a focus on the people.

Festivals, music and dancing

Adjacent to the Palacio a permanent local handicrafts market is a delight for purchasing silver jewelry, T-shirts, beaded bracelets, pottery, hammocks, blankets, and much more. Just a few blocks away a large park-like garden called Jardin Borda frequently hosts community events and festivals with local vendors, music and dancers.

Of course, every bed of roses has its thorns and Cuernavaca is no exception. Sometimes the municipal water doesn’t come for a day or two and the electricity goes out for a while during the rainy season. Still the moon shines bright at night, fresh bread is sold in neighborhood stores and the salsas in the taco stands are fresh and spicy. Cuernavaca is the kind of city where just by going downtown you can discover something fun going on. You can easily get out and participate in living in Mexico.

“Mexico: The Trick is Living Here”
By Julia Taylor
A practical, funny guide for those who want to live, work, and retire in Mexico.
Mexico: The Trick is Living Here

This article and the images were first published in Giddy Limits on January 1, 2008.

www.giddylimits.co.uk
An inspirational online magazine for men and women over 50, packed with great ideas and information.

Copywrite 2008 Julia Taylor.

Tepoztlan, Morelos Has it All Part 2

First Published
on Mexico Connect December 1, 2007

Tepoztlan, Morelos Has it All

The Monastery, Museum, Pyramid Hike, Tepoznieves, Walking Tour and How to Get There

By Julia Taylor © Julia Taylor 2007

The Monastery

copywrite Julia Taylor 2008To the left of the church is the old monastery (Exconvento de Tepoztlan), now open to visitors Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. free of charge. INAH (the National Institute of Anthropology and History) has been in charge of the monastery since 1939 and the recent restoration of the original paintings on the walls copywrite Julia Taylor 2008makes it a captivating place to visit.

A sign in Spanish at the entrance to the convent informs visitors that a few years after the Spanish conquered Tepoztlan in 1521, the Franciscans began their evangelization of the local people. Between 1530 and 1550, the Dominicans took copywrite Julia Taylor 2008over and, by 1580, the convent had been built and was in use. By 1857, religious life at the convent stopped and the monastery was abandoned. It was used avs an occasional barracks by French troops of Maximiliano de Hapsburgo between 1864 and 1867 and much later by Zapatistas and Constitutionalists.

The monastery is cool, and shaded. A peaceful patio complete with orange trees blooming and bearing fruit reminds the visitor that it was once a home to monks. If you are lucky there will be an art show on display upstairs. Sometimes local artists copywrite Julia Taylor 2008display their impressive, international quality work in the upstairs hallways of the monastery. The gift shop is bursting with interesting, quality items and the views from upstairs are settling to tired travelers.

To make an appointment for a guided tour of the monastery you can call 739-395-0255. Dial copywrite Julia Taylor 200801 first from inside Mexico and 011-52 from the U.S. or Canada or write to medh.mor@inah.gob.mx

Museum

There is a small museum in Tepoztlan with pre-Hispanic artifacts on display. It is a cool, quiet refuge perfect for spending a few moments contemplating the passage of copywrite Julia Taylor 2008time in Tepoztlan. Named after Carlos Pellicer, a poet who fell in love with Tepoztlan and donated his private collection to the people, the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (cost $10.00 pesos).

Pyramid Hike

For those interested copywrite Julia Taylor 2008in strenuous, high altitude exercise rewarded by a dramatic view, the pyramid hike is a perfect way to spend a few hours. The trail starts where the main street of Tepoztlan ends and the columnar basalt mountains begin. Hikers in all kinds of crazy footwear follow the wide, clean trail up and up and up a steep ravine in the mountain to reach the top where they can sit on the remains of a pre-Hispanic pyramid and take in the view of the Tepoztlan valley and the mountains beyond. Make sure that you have a little money with you because at the top you must pay a small fee to see the pyramid copywrite Julia Taylor 2008(and view.) Watch out for the raccoon-like animals at the top. They’ll chase you away from your lunch! Click here to see some photos of the pyramid and valley.

Tepoznieves

Tepoztlan is home to the famous and extravagant ice cream store, Tepoznieves. Hundreds of original flavors, created from local fruits and other ingredients, make choosing your treat a challenge. The bilingual menus posted on the cases help you to figure out what all the tubs of colorful ice cream and sorbet contain, but you can ask for tastes to narrow it copywrite Julia Taylor 2008down to the flavor(s) you want. Just ask the attendant, “¿Me da una prueba de _____?” and they will give you a small scoop. Be sure to try the flavors that contain fruits currently in season. Some of them are so good they will knock your socks off. The author recommends the sorbets (de agua).

Walking Tour

All of the above mentioned places and sights are within easy walking distance of each other. The highway from Cuernavaca snakes down into the valley then becomes the main street of Tepoztlan, passing along one side of the zocalo and market. copywrite Julia Taylor 2008Start your tour on this street. The first place that you will see as you arrive in Tepoztlan is Tepoznieves on your left. A couple of blocks further along the road, the zócalo will be on your right. As you stand facing the zocalo, the craft market will be the road in front of you and to your right (it’s really obvious and you can’t miss it.) copywrite Julia Taylor 2008The market is to the left of and behind the zocalo. Just beyond the market is the entrance to the church and monastery. To climb to the pyramid, follow the main road all of the way to the foot of the mountain and it will gradually narrow and become the trail that leads to the top. You can’t miss it as there are lots of little stands copywrite Julia Taylor 2008selling things to visitors. Finally, to find the museum, follow the craft fair down hill (the church will be to your left). At the first street turn left. The museum is in a building that connects to the back of the church and monastery. How do you like that? A town in Mexico where you don’t have to ask directions!

How to Get to Tepoztlan

copywrite Julia Taylor 2008Tepoztlan is about 45 minutes from downtown Cuernavaca (or 20 minutes if you take the toll road and pay 22 pesos). You can get there either by driving or on a bus. If you drive, the highway leads out of Cuernavaca from the Glorieta de la Paz, passing through Ocotepec, curving many times and finally arriving in Tepoztlan (to take the toll road, get onto copywrite Julia Taylor 2008the highway to Mexico City at the Glorieta de la Paz, then follow signs to Tepoztlan). Parking is easy to find on a side street or in one of the many family-owned parking areas in the small neighborhood surrounding the zocalo.

You can also take a bus from the Lopez Mateos market in copywrite Julia Taylor 2008Cuernavaca. They leave every 10 minutes and cost $11.50 pesos, one way. The direct bus leaves every 20 minutes and costs $15.00 pesos. Both buses follow the same route, but one stops to pick up people along the way.

If you are in Mexico City you can take a direct bus from the Taxqueña bus terminal (at the south side of Mexico City). These buses leave every 30 minutes and cost $71.00 pesos.

Mexico: The Trick is Living Here Will you be traveling in Mexico? You can read my e-book Mexico: The Trick is Living Here and travel comfortably and safely in Mexico.

Tepoztlan, Morelos Has it All Part 1

First Published
on Mexico Connect November 1, 2007

Tepoztlan, Morelos Has it All

A Street Market, Food Market, the Zocalo, and a 16th Century Church

By Julia Taylor © Julia Taylor 2007

Tepoztlan also has a feeling of extra magic. It is home to a mountaintop pyramid, UFO sightings, one of Mexico’s best midwives, and clairvoyants.

copywrite Julia Taylor 2008Spanish speakers or not, experienced travelers or newbies, adventurous or shy, shoppers, history buffs, outdoor enthusiasts-Tepoztlan, Morelos welcomes them all and still manages to stay Mexican. There’s something for everyone in Tepoztlan so feel free to bring the whole family. From the first winding descent into thecopywrite Julia Taylor 2008 tiny valley nestling Tepoztlan the visitor feels intrigued. The town is a picturesque gridwork of sloping, narrow streets, paved with native volcanic stones. While the atmosphere is busy around the zócalo and market, the sounds are those of people, not traffic. Tepoztlan carefully routes its traffic away from the main pedestrian copywrite Julia Taylor 2008areas so that visitors can comfortably enjoy the sights, shops and atmosphere.

Everywhere the visitor looks there are interesting views of quiet streets, local people, happy tourists, occasional horses or mules, all against a backdrop of dramatic columnar basalt mountains. Visitors who take a camera find themselves inspired to snap photo after photo. The town is lush with trees filling the yards of adobe houses and flowers blooming out of rock walls. The best way to see Tepoztlan is by strolling its streets. There are plenty of welcoming little shops and restaurants to stop in along the way and, unlike in many copywrite Julia Taylor 2008places in Mexico, you don’t get lost easily because the streets are laid out on a grid.

The people of Tepoztlan are an eclectic collection of native indigenous people, Morelos locals, long time expats from around the world, and short-term residents studying Spanish, as well as day visitors from nearby Cuernavaca copywrite Julia Taylor 2008and Mexico City - and they all love Tepoztlan for its very Mexican-ness. This combination of backgrounds gives Tepoztlan an easy appeal that is hard to summarize. Basically it amounts to a greater feeling of ease and comfort than in most places in Mexico.

Tepoztlan also has a feeling of extra magic. During Holy Week and the week surrounding the Day of the Dead (November 2), there are wild parties with dancing, music, food, decorations, and religious ceremonies.

The pyramid at the top of the hill overlooking the Tepoztlan valley adds a feeling of importance to the area. Many people climb to the top of the mountain and touch the remaining stones of the pyramid to receive energy from the universe. Tepoztlan is also home to UFO sightings, one of Mexico’s best midwives, and clairvoyants.

What to See in Tepoztlan

copywrite Julia Taylor 2008

Craft Market

Every Saturday and Sunday, Tepoztlan hosts an upscale craft market. Traffic is closed through the stone-paved street along the side of the market. Stands line either side of the gently sloped road, leaving an ample walkway in the middle that soon fills with relaxed shoppers.

copywrite Julia Taylor 2008The slope adds to the ambiance because as you look up and down the street you see the colorful crowd and beyond it, the mountains that surround Tepoztlan. In the stands, people sell all kinds of wonderful hand crafts including embroidered shirts, embroidered wall hangings, wooden kitchen tools, wooden lamps and home décor, clay miniatures, jewelry, ice cream, knitted hats, natural materials for dried flower arrangements, skirts, blouses, and much more.

Sunday Food Market

copywrite Julia Taylor 2008After working up an appetite shopping and seeing Tepoztlan every visitor should eat lunch. There are many wonderful restaurants in Tepoztlan serving both Mexican and other food types. You can sit and enjoy one of the local treats, micheladas (beer with lemon, chili, and salt) in a cool, quiet environment.

Fillings for Tlacoyos
*Habas - mashed fava beans
Frijoles - refried beans
Requesón - a cheese similar to ricotta
Fillings for Quesadillas
Tinga - shredded chicken in tomato
sauce (sometimes spicy)
*Flor de calabaza - squash blossoms
*Huitlacoche - Mexican corn truffle
Chales - pork rinds in salsa
Pollo - shredded chicken
Picadillo - ground beef with light tomato
sauce and finely chopped veggies
Queso Oaxaca - similar to mozzarella
Champiñones - mushrooms
Papas con longaniza - potato chunks with
spicy sausage
*Recommended by the author
Note: These descriptions are general.
Each chef has her own recipes.

For those who want an authentic experience, the food market is a great place to eat. The market is a dark, cramped collection of tables, comals, small refrigerators, and gas burners under a thick patchwork of multicolored tarps.

At first, the market may seem too cramped to enjoy. Walk around slowly, surveying the stands, looking for one with seats available and food that looks appetizing. The author and her family arrived at the market with a tired and hungry toddler in a baby backpack. After stopping at one place with no room for the baby, we went to another with a whole bench available.

The author’s son was looking longingly across the isle at some handmade copywrite Julia Taylor 2008tortillas that a young lady was making. She quietly caught my husband’s eye and held out a fresh rolled tortilla, “for the baby,” she said. She touched our hearts with her thoughtful gesture and more importantly saved us from a few minutes of crying while we waited for our food.

copywrite Julia Taylor 2008There’s a section where they sell tacos. You can get steamed sheep meat with salsa in a tortilla and a pop on the side. The cooked sheep heads are right there on the countertop and I always wonder how they keep the hair from getting into the tacos.

The author recommends the copywrite Julia Taylor 2008section where they sell quesadillas, gorditas and the local tlacoyos and itacates. These are a Tepoztlan specialty and Cuernavacans sometimes go to Tepoztlan on their day off just to eat them for lunch. To see which fillings are available for your tlacoyos and quesadillas, look at the menu hanging above the stand and at the bowls of prepared copywrite Julia Taylor 2008fillings lined up along the edge of the table. Use the filling guide at left to help you interpret the menu. You can also get pozole and handmade blue or white corn tortillas.

The Zócalo

The zócalo of Tepoztlan is a pleasant area with a bandstand in the middle and plenty of benches next to small, copywrite Julia Taylor 2008fenced gardens. Some days the zócalo is a quiet place to rest and reflect; other days it’s packed with dancers and partiers.

The day we went to take the photos for this article, there was a group of young people performing African drumming for a captivated crowd of native locals, expatriates, and tourists. Our son was firstcopywrite Julia Taylor 2008 mesmerized by the drumming, then inspired to run and dance. We spent at least an hour just being together in the zócalo enjoying the music and other people. That’s what being in the zócalo is all about.

The Church

The 16th century church in Tepoztlan is dedicated to Nuestra Senora de la copywrite Julia Taylor 2008Natividad
(Our Lady of the Nativity) and, together with the monastery (described below), is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Morelos and Puebla . The church yard is partially shaded, grassy, and gridded with low rock walls perfect for sitting on. There are always a few people relaxing there, some letting their children run or eat snacks out of the way of the nearby busy market.copywrite Julia Taylor 2008

Seeded Archway

Arching over the entrance to the churchyard is an amazing piece of artwork. The archway is a detailed pictorial message uniting aspects of the pre-Hispanic, Christian, ancient, and modern culture of Tepoztlan’s people. Since 1993, the archways have been made of seeds, which are long-lasting but - more importantly - part of the heritage given to the people by their ancestors. The archway requires second and third looks to take it in. Standing back, the viewer gets an overview of the elements included. Then, copywrite Julia Taylor 2008moving close, the viewer can see the variety of seeds used to create the artwork.

Are you all excited about going to Tepoztlan but still need to know how to get there? In Part 2 of this article you can read about the museum, restored monastery, pyramid hike, regionally famous ice cream store, how to find all of these places easily, and, of course, how to get to Tepoztlan, Morelos.copywrite Julia Taylor 2008
copywrite Julia Taylor 2008
copywrite Julia Taylor 2008

copywrite Julia Taylor 2008
copywrite Julia Taylor 2008

Royal Roads of Morelos and Puebla

First Published
on Mexico Connect October 1, 2007

The Pre-Hispanic, the Colonial, the Royal Roads of Morelos and Puebla

By Julia Taylor © Julia Taylor 2007

Photos by Miguel Angel Cuevas © Miguel Angel Cuevas 2007

Step by step, all roads are formed by those who walk them. The roads of Mexico were first formed by native people walking from city to city. These roads - some paved - were used for conducting warfare, cultural interchange, and commerce. Later these same roads were trod by the heavy horses of the conquering Spaniards and the sandals of the missionaries. Still later, they were traveled by mestizo tradesmen and religious pilgrims. Today, these roads are known throughout Mexico as caminos reales, meaning “royal” or “official roads,” sometimes translated as “the king’s highways.”

In Morelos, just as throughout the rest of Mexico, Augustinian, Franciscan, and Dominican missionaries built their convents near existing native populations to facilitate their conversion to Christianity. After the network of convents shifted into power, the routes that connected them were used for centuries by the friars and people, alike. Now, with the relatively recent construction of modern highways, the routes are being forgotten.

But something special is happening in Morelos because it is home to part of the last surviving network of convents in Mexico. In 1994, 14 sixteenth century convents (11 in Morelos and 3 in Puebla) were listed as World Heritage sites by UNESCO (The United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization). This did a lot to ensure the survival of these convents as important cultural and architectural resources, but some essence of the network that makes them special as a whole is still being lost. This is because visitors reach the convents by car, traveling on highways that don’t follow the original routes.

Miguel Ángel Cuevas Olascoaga, a 35 year old resident of Morelos, aims to revive the network itself by re-opening the routes that tie it together for the people of Morelos and the world to enjoy. Cuevas has his bachelor’s degree in architecture, his master’s in conservation of cultural heritage monuments, and is currently pursuing his doctorate in architecture and urban design. His thesis in progress is on the design of cultural tourism routes. He hopes that twice a year, groups of people will be able to walk the king’s highways from the slopes of Popocatepetl through northern Morelos, visiting the World Heritage convents as they go.

Of course, before he can do this, Cuevas has to know exactly where these royal roads are. As part of his research, he and a researcher from INAH (the Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia, The National Institute of Anthropology and History) spent 9 days walking 242 kilometers (just over 150 miles), visiting all 14 convents and getting lost only twice. They took with them a compass, GPS, video camera, water, and maps. There are few places to stay along the route so, like the original pilgrims, they asked permission to sleep in the huerto (garden out back of the convent) or in the portal de los peregrinos (a covered area connected to the chapel, usually to the right of the main entrance, built to shelter pilgrims).

As they went, they identified the road construction to confirm that they had found the actual route. The original roads took three forms. The largest was the calzada, which was as wide as a modern road (8 to 10 meters). Calzadas were generally unpaved, but were occasionally paved with stones at the entrance of certain towns. They were used for the transport of people walking, domesticated animals, men on horseback, carts pulled by animals, and cattle. The middle sized roads are called caminos and were 3 or 4 meters wide and used by people walking or those on horseback. Less than half of these were paved with stones, with the pavement extending no farther than 10 kilometers from the town center. Finally, there were veredas, which were no wider than a meter and used by people on foot. Cuevas and his partner identified the paving techniques, looking for those that originated in the 16th century.

Despite the fact that people rarely use these routes to go from town to town anymore, they are still known as the royal roads. To get a general idea of where to start looking, they often asked the older locals, “¿Cuál es el camino real que llega a …?” (”Which is the king’s highway to…?”) The older people know the roads from the days before cars when they used to travel on horseback, transport their goods using mules, or walk to the next town.

In fact, every city of Mexico has its king’s highways, hidden within its fabric. And every city of Mexico has its old men who remember these roads and can tell their stories. These royal roads have been built on, around, and in many cases, re-built for modern traffic, but they are still there because people still travel them, whether they realize it or not. Grandfathers still remember the days when people hired arrieros (muleteers) with their mules or donkeys to carry their harvested corn, beans, or grains from the field to market. Arrieros traveled the royal roads back and forth from town to town, kicking up dust in the dry season and getting coated in mud during the rainy season.

Imagine a Mexican town you know well. Where might the king’s highway have started or ended? Imagine the men outside of town, resting near the road or playing cards or having cock fights in the shade of a tree. Imagine all the stories of adventures and misadventures, the busy daytime traffic, shuffling and clopping along, hurrying at dusk to get into a safe place. Imagine the lonely road at night, a worried family bringing a sick person to the biggest town in the region, with no flashlights - guided by the moon.

Grandpas still tell stories about events along the royal roads. They know who fought whom at the designating fighting spot or where the devil or La Llorona (the ghost of a crying woman) habitually appeared to drunks who traveled too often at night. The trees, rocks, and curves in the road are the big landmarks of the past, and today we pass by and know so little of them. Since the only way a road can die is if people stop traveling it, Cuevas’ project will help to keep a small portion of these king’s highways alive.

Cuevas’ doctorate thesis won’t tell stories of cock fights, and devil sightings, but it hopefully will help to open the royal roads connecting the World Heritage sites to visitors. The visitors will have to imagine the old days themselves or stop to ask a grandpa what he remembers. Cuevas’ proposal is that twice a year, for two weeks each time, visitors would be able walk the caminos reales as part of a truly Mexican cultural experience.

He hopes that these road openings will be during Holy Week and in November in the days surrounding the Day of the Dead. Visitors will enjoy observing the preparations, festivals, and completion of these special celebrations with their accompanying sights, sounds, and smells, as well as the sun, views, and clean air of the countryside. He likes the idea that these holidays strike right at the heart of Morelos’ complex history. The celebrations include elements from pre-Hispanic as well as Catholic traditions and are rooted in the very land that the route crosses.

He personally enjoys the contrast of the sights and smells of the countryside with those of small towns, particularly surrounding the Day of the Dead. As you enter a town you leave behind the smells of marigolds and other flowers, cattle or sheep, and grasses and begin to hear people’s voices, smell the foods of the offerings, especially the bread, smell the copal burning as incense, etc.

He believes that the route should be enjoyed in groups, which can be organized with guides, first aid, and security support. You can attempt the route alone, but for that must have a map and compass as well as be able to speak Spanish and be prepared to handle any threats to your personal safety. If you would like to join a group and walk all or part of Morelos’s royal roads, seeing the towns and countryside, learning about the architecture of the convents, and appreciating the local celebrations, Cuevas will be organizing some pilot walks during 2008 to test the feasibility of his idea. You must be in reasonable condition for walking and preferably be able to speak at least a little Spanish. You can contact him at the doctorate department of Architecture at the state university of Morelos. (postgrado de la facultad de arquitectura de la UAEM, coord_conservacion “at” hotmail.com).

The royal roads were first utilized by Mesoamerican cultures in central Mexico. 

 

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The royal roads - some paved - were first utilized by Mesoamerican cultures in central Mexico. During the founding of New Spain, they played a role in war strategy, and later were used by Franciscan, Augustinian and Dominican missionaries.

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Today some roads are being lost, such as this portion in Yecapixtla, Morelos.

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These roads were in use when mendicant friars began the process of evangelization and the founding or dedication of cities and towns. However today this road network is being lost to weeds or floods and water. This is the case of this road segment in Yecapixtla, Morelos.

16th century convent routes between Morelos and Puebla are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

 
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UNESCO has listed 16th century convent routes between Morelos and Puebla as World Heritage Sites. However the original paths are being lost to ignorance and the paving of these roads. 

In the distance, convent of Tochimilco in Puebla - known as “The Jewel” - can be seen. 

 
 

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Cuevas’ doctoral research attempts to register and to conserve these roads, mainly through cultural activities. In the distance, the convent of Tochimilco in Puebla - known as “The Jewel” - can be seen. This vast landscape is incomparable. 

The walk lasted nine days and covered some 243 kilometers (150 miles). 

 
————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————The walk lasted nine days and covered some 243 kilometers (150 miles), starting at 7 a.m. and breaking at 1 p.m. to eat. We took periodic 10-minute rest stops and brought only what was indispensable - a sleeping bag, tee shirt, pants and windbreaker, a cap, sun block, cereal bars, chocolate, dry fruit, a flashlight, GPS, flexometer, electrolyte solution and water. The backpack’s total weight could be no more than 5 kilos (11 lbs). We slept in village inns and in the convents’ pilgrims’ portals, groves or indigenous chapels. 

Some narrow trails are hardly visible. 

 
 

———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Three types of roads have been identified - calzadas (roadways) - wide enough for people, carriages or men on horseback, the paths - used only for men on foot or horseback, and the narrow trails - hardly visible, like that in the photo. 

“Don Goyo,” the Popocatepetl volcano 

 

————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————”Don Goyo,” as the Popocatepetl volcano is known, is a silent historical witness. However the older people who worked and walked these roads still remember the beautiful landscapes they saw when young.
 

Tepoztlan is a typical town. 


 
————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————Each town on slopes of the volcano and most cities in Mexico still have a part of their royal roads and the grandparents know their stories interwoven in space and time. Tepoztlan is a typical town where its older people have edited and published books on their history and traditions.

I invite all of you to join our group as we travel this vast region. 

 
————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————The vast landscapes are unforgettable. Our blood runs purer, our sense of smell is sharper, and breakfast is a bowl of tejocotes, a typical Mexican fruit named “Mexican cherries” by friar Antonio de Ciudad Real in the 17th century. Juicy wild Mexican pears are a delight to the palate. I invite all of you to join our group as we travel this extraordinary region of central Mexico. 

Holy water in convent fonts 

 
————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————People of the villages, especially the older ones, know magnificent legends that a visitor can enjoy if he or she strikes up a friendly conversation with them. The holy water in convent fonts is still an incentive of faith and hope for Mexicans.

Beginning in 2008, two activities are planned, the first in March. 

 
————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————Beginning in 2008, two activities are planned. The first walk to these 14 convents is scheduled from March 15 to the 31. Participants must be in good physical condition, as this season is quite warm.

The second is scheduled at the end of October, in conjunction with the Day of the Dead. 

 
————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————The second is scheduled at the end of October, in conjunction with the Day of the Dead, and the weather will be cold. This is an excellent opportunity to observe the preparations and celebrations, the offerings, and the entire color mosaic of color and tradition. 

The experience is unforgettable. 

 

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————–If you want, in addition to the scenery you can enjoy direct contact with the people - their cordiality and gastronomy. It is hard to forget the scent of copal incense, of bread baked in firewood ovens, of tamales, gorditas, and the traditional chocolate champurrado or the cafe de olla, typical of the area. 
 

Join us to experience the other Mexico and the roads our ancestors traveled. 

 
 
———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— Join us to experience the other Mexico and the roads our ancestors traveled.

For further reading:

UNESCO - Earliest 16th-Century Monasteries on the Slopes of Popocatepetl

An article in Spanish

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Everybody’s Happy at Morelos’s Las Huertas Adventure Paradise

First Published
on Mexico Connect September 1, 2007

Everybody’s Happy at Morelos’s Las Huertas Adventure Paradise

By Julia Taylor

Close your eyes and imagine warm water rushing over your shoulders and massaging your back as you recline in the shade, leaning against a log. Open your eyes and you are at Las Huertas enjoying the artesian fed stream at the heart of the park. Paraiso Adventura Las Huertas (Adventure Paradise Las Huertas), located in southern Morelos along the Amacuzac River is both adventurous and relaxing. It is a relatively small park, of about 3 hectares (approximately seven and a half acres), with both man-made pools of varying depths and a cascading waterfall, with artfully enhanced natural pools.

Swimming and Lounging at Las Huertas

Just after entering Las Huertas you see the aqua-colored eye of a warm spring. The spring is surrounded by a C-shaped edge that provides places for bathers to lounge. The mouth of the “C” is a stepped waterfall where people can sit and enjoy a warm body massage. The stream continues down slope forming a series of shaded pools and falls, all perfect for exploring and lounging with friends and family.

The bottoms of the pools are sandy so it’s a good idea to bring some kind of water footwear in order to explore with gusto. The course sand is fun to scoop up in your hand and let slide out again, observing the colors and shapes.

It is easy to access much of the stream from the bank, which is bare of vegetation, and on Sundays elderly women can be seen enjoying the warm, flowing waters.  As long as you aren’t there on a weekend there are plenty of private nooks further down the falls, near where the spring joins the chocolate colored Amacuzac River where you can get a sense of solitude. As you recline in your choice location you occasionally catch a very faint hint of the smell of sulfur.

There are also a couple of places where you can lay on your back and float a short distance, gazing up at the leafy canopy. If you look closely you will see that many of the trees produce the squishy black fruit called zapote negro.

The natural pools reminded me of my childhood days of playing in the streams of the Pacific Northwest with my sister, though I appreciated that in this case the water is warm and you can stay in it for hours in the shade without getting cold. I went to Las Huertas on a Sunday, the traditional day for family outings in Mexico, so the park was packed. Everywhere I could see bathers reclining in the water, chatting with their companions.

While I appreciated the falls for their natural look, shadiness, moving water, and sense of adventure Las Huertas also has three round swimming pools of various depths and one rectangular pool, ranging from less than a foot deep, to about four feet deep which are perfect for children’s rollicking games. The rectangular pool is surrounded by palapas for those who wish to sip their ice-cold drinks and read while the kids have their fun in the sun. The pools are clean and free of mysterious little yucky things, so you can fully enjoy them. Bring your water wings, inner tubes, and beach balls to enjoy these sparkling play areas.

The Facilities at Las Huertas Adventure Paradise

Las Huertas provides picnic tables throughout the park stationed near the stream and pools so you can stake one of these out as your home-base. You are allowed to bring your own food and drinks, though glass containers are strictly prohibited. There are relatively few barbeques in the park so if you aren’t going on a weekday it would be smart to bring your own portable if you have one. I had to laugh at the sign at the entrance prohibiting microwaves! I guess the park staff has seen it all as Mexicans are used to transporting all sorts of equipment for work and recreation because electric hotplates, propane tanks, pets and weapons are also prohibited.

Camping is allowed anywhere you would like in the grounds on a first come first serve basis. Level areas are limited, so come early to get your spot. There are many small trees and if you have a hammock you can bring that along for a relaxing siesta. On the Sunday that we visited the afternoon smells of beef and longaniza cooking over hot coals made my stomach growl with longing.

I appreciated the noticeable lack of trash throughout the park. Despite the fact that on the day we visited there were easily 1,000 people packed onto the grounds, I only saw three Styrofoam cups all day long. Garbage cans are available in convenient locations and it is clear that staff members also move through the park, keeping it clean.

The only disappointment at Las Huertas is that the bathrooms are standard Mexican bathrooms. There was no toilette paper in the lone toilette paper dispenser and no soap-not even soap dispensers to give the illusion of the presence of soap. By the end of the day mountains of used, imported T.P. were flooding the bathroom stalls, though the bathroom had been cleaned recently enough that there was no odor. Secondly, mud is tracked into the bathroom and changing area. Mud in and of it’s self is OK but there are no hooks or shelves in the changing area to allow you to keep your towel and other things out of it. Se la vi. You’re in Mexico and you have to take the good with the bad.

There is plenty of good to be had. As we were enjoying the kiddy pool a father loaned our son his daughter’s little inner tube and beach ball, just out of the kindness of his heart. Later on he saw us getting ready to leave and told us that if we wanted, his family had left over beef that we could throw on the barbeque. “We always bring lots,” he said. “Really, you are totally welcome to it.” He told us that we reminded him of his family when his first child was a baby and asked us about sights to see in downtown Cuernavaca, as he had come from Mexico City. This kind of hospitality is infectious and makes traveling in Mexico a joy.

As it was, we declined his generous offer and went to the palapa restaurant at the uphill edge of the park, open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Here you can order all types of gorditas, quesadillas, or a fried carp as well as classic snacks such as potato chips, pop (that’s soda for those of you not from the West), and packaged cookies. The prices are reasonable. The gorditas and quesadillas are large and handmade on a comal for only $10 pesos a piece (approximately $1 U.S.).  The fried fish is huge and comes on a bed of lettuce with a dressing on the side for $80 pesos (or approximately $8 U.S.). I was impressed with the prices because the park is in the middle of nowhere and could easily get away with charging higher prices for foods. A second restaurant in the modern style building at the entrance sells hamburgers and French fries, also for reasonable prices.  Next to the burger restaurant is a store that sells bathing suits, floatation toys and other things for fun in the water.

The park allows visitors to enter from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily and the entrance fee for adults is $50 pesos (approximately $5 U.S.) with reduced fees for small children. If you stay the night you can enjoy the park for two days for $150 pesos per person and $75 pesos each additional night.

Tourism Jobs

We talked to a park employee who told us that the park employs 40 people regularly and 70 on holidays and vacations. These jobs are an alternative to the farming and grazing that are available in the tiny towns a few kilometers away from the park.

How to Find Las Huertas

Getting to Las Huertas is a real Mexican adventure that is best done in a private vehicle. From Cuernavaca take the toll highway, south, following signs to Acapulco. You pass through the first toll booth and pay $56 pesos for passenger vehicles. From the toll booth you travel an additional 31.5 kilometers through hot, grazed forest and occasional sorghum fields. Here’s the trick. The turn off is an unimproved cattle guard at the end of a cut bank. You can’t see this turn off as you approach it. The one and only warning that you have to flick on your turn signal and slow your speed is that about 100 meters before you will dive off the narrow highway shoulder you see the small kilometer marker (just like the mile markers we have in the U.S.) for kilometer 149. Keep your eyes on those kilometer markers and as soon as you see the marker for kilometer 149, slow your speed and prepare for a rough exit. Do not miss this because it will be many kilometers before you can turn around and you will probably be charged two more toll booths to do it.

As soon as you cross the cattle guard you see a large sign for Las Huertas and a second water park. Turn left at the signs and cross the bridge to the other side of the highway. Next you travel a little over three kilometers on a graded dirt road through the booming heat of southern Morelos, catching glimpses of the Amacuzac River. You pass only two solitary sheds where you can buy quesadillas before arriving at the parking lot and park entrance. Don’t let the tricky access road stop you. On your next visit to Morelos let Las Huertas fill your heart with joy.

Captions for Everybody’s Happy at Morelos’s Las Huertas Adventure Paradise

1. Boys jump into the turquoise mouth of the spring at Las Huertas
2. Bathers lounge in the cascading waters below the mouth of the spring.
3. Men enjoy back massages in a waterfall.
4. Older women rest in the warm, flowing water.
5. A group of bathers in a shaded pool. Yes, bra straps cause troubles in Mexico, too.
6. Boys exploring in the shaded pools.
7. A sill log creates a smooth cascade, perfect for back massages.
8. Families enjoy splashing in the sparkling waters of one of the pools
9. People of all ages enjoying a swimming pool.
10. Bathers take a break from the water to snack and chat in the shade.
11. A gecko at the entrance declares reduced rates for children depending on their height. 
12. The Amacuzac River gurgles quietly.
13. One of the signs on gravel road leading to Las Huertas.

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